This guide will step you through the process of soldering the PCBs found in the DIY EDTracker kit together in the correct order. Note that this guide is for kits shipped with the MPU9250 sensor module.
The DIY EDTracker kit should contain the following components:
1x EDTracker PCB
1x Arduino compatible Pro Micro
1x MPU9250 gyroscope, accelerometer & compass module (sensor module)
2x 12 pin headers
1x 10 pin header
1x Push button switch
A low power soldering iron ~30 to 60W (see item SKU: HCTOOL0030)
Some solder with flux (see item SKU: HCCONS0010)
Note: Each component must be soldered to the PCB in a specific order so please follow the steps in the order shown.
Take the EDTracker PCB and orientate it so that the accelerometer side is showing as above.
Carefully insert the push button switch into the 4 pads labelled SW1. Note that the switch must be orientated so that the pins are on the left and right hand side as shown above. Once all the pins are located into the correct holes, firmly push the switch so that it sits flat with the PCB being careful not to bend any of the pins.
Now turn the PCB over and solder the 4 pins to the PCB.
Tip: Solder two opposite corners first then check that the switch is still sitting flat with the PCB before soldering the other 2 pins. That way if the switch isn’t sitting flat it can be adjusted by carefully re-heating the solder on the appropriate pad whilst adjusting the switch.
With the PCB orientated so that the Pro Micro side is pointing up, insert the two 12 pin headers into the pads for the Pro Micro.
Note that the pins on the headers are slightly longer on one side of the header than the other. These can be optionally trimmed down after soldering but if not then insert the shorter side of the pin header into the Pro Mico Pads so that the longer side is pointing upwards as shown. Make sure the header strips sit flat with the PCB.
Flip the PCB over and solder all the pins on the two header pins to the PCB.
Tip: First solder the two end pins of each strip first. Then check that the header strips are still sitting flat with the PCB. That way if the strips aren’t sitting flat they can be adjusted by carefully re-heating the solder on the appropriate pad whilst adjusting the strip.
Now flip the PCB back over so that the Pro Micro side is facing up and insert the Pro Micro onto the protruding header pins. Make sure that the USB connector on the Pro Micro is pointing to the edge of the PCB as shown above, and that it is sitting flat with the header pins.
Now solder all the pads on the Pro Micro to the header pins. As in previous tips, start by soldering two of the endmost opposite pads, then check the Pro Micro is sitting flat and solder the rest.
With the PCB orientated so that the accelerometer side is pointing upwards, insert the long side of the 10 pin header into the accelerometer pads so that the header strip sits flat with the PCB and the short pin side is pointing upwards.
Turn the PCB over and solder the pins of the 10 pin header as shown above starting with the two end pins first, checking the header is still flat to the PCB, then soldering the remaining pins.
Flip the PCB back over to the accelerometer side and then insert the sensor module onto the 10 pin header as shown above.
As the sensor module only has a header on one side it may lean towards the EDTracker PCB. To keep it parallel with the PCB, this time solder one of the end pads first. Then whilst heating the solder on that pad, carefully hold the opposite side of the sensor module up so that it is parallel with the EDTracker PCB and then remove the soldering iron from the pad keeping the sensor module held in position whilst the solder solidifies. This should then hold the sensor module in position while the rest of the pads are soldered as shown above. Note: Do not keep the soldering iron on any pad longer than a few seconds as this may cause it to delaminate from the PCB.
Your DIY EDTracker is now complete and you can move onto the calibration stage by following this forum thread:
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